threadpaperpaint

Things made by me. Paintings, clothes and everything in between.


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The yellow Oslo Cardigan

I hope you’re doing well and are enjoying the beginning of autumn so far. It’s getting colder in my part of the world so I thought it would be fitting to open my autumn sewing season with the Oslo cardigan.

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Like I said in my planning post, I wanted a cardigan that would be warm, cozy and non-black. I’m glad to say that all these things have been achieved. Still, I’m not one hundred percent happy with the project. (By the way, it only looks like the sides aren’t level and I didn’t iron the hell out of that thing. They are and I did – I fully blame it on my poor fabric choice.)

For this Cardigan I used the Oslo pattern by Seamwork, Colettes‘ monthly magazine. The pattern was simple to assemble cut and sew but I have one major complaint that keeps bugging me. The pattern has you attach the collar piece to the already hemmed shell of the cardigan by just stitching the doubled collar down at the cardigan-front and neckline right sides together. I get it – this is a super fast way of doing things and Seamwork promises patterns that can be executed in 3 hours or less. But it just leaves a very untidy open edge at the hemline. I probably should have taken the time to only attach the front edge of the collar and then slipstitch the backside of the collar to the shell by hand. And I will probably do so in possible future makes.
I also didn’t really care for the optional button closure because I can’t think of a way that would make this button band not look vaguely grandpa-style (on me). So I decided to not add a closure and it has been fine so far. It might look fine with a single row button band but I wasn’t totally sold on that idea so I left it as is.

Over all I do like the pattern. It is long enough for my long torso and even the sleeves only needed a little bit of lengthening. I have seen a few people kind of drown in their makes of the Oslo cardigan so being between sizes I decided to go down a size (L). This was definitely the right decision. The shoulders are still a bit wide but nothing to dramatic. I really enjoy the scarf-like feel of the collar piece and the overall relaxed fit of the cardigan. So much so that I might make another version – with better fabric.
Sadly fabric I choose was a bit of a disappointment. It just clings to everything. you can see every damn seam line of the garment below and thats really not what you want in a cardigan. I still enjoy the color very much but I think I’ll have to wear it over long sleeved tops and dresses. Not much of a problem in winter but still – I’ll be on the lookout for fabric that is better suited and make up a second version. Let’s call this one a wearable muslin for now.

How has you autumn sewing been going? Do you have any tips for the collar issue? I’m unsure about slipstitching knits, maybe topstitching is the way to go?

xxx Sarah


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Autumn/winter sewing plans

As the first leaves start to turn yellow and the days get shorter I find myself thinking about longer sleeves and comfy woolen things to wear for autumn. So I’ve collected my autumn/winter sewing plans and made some little line drawings for your and my improved visualization and enjoyment.
As you can see, I’ve bought fabrics already for most of my planned projects and some of them are even in various stages of completion. Yeah for an early start to autumn sewing!
Let’s go through them one by one, shall we?

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The Seamwork Oslo Cardigan

I’m in desperate need of a non-black cardigan. I kid you not when I tell you that I have zero cardigans that aren’t black. And some of the ones I own I’ll have to toss out anyway because they are falling apart at the seams. Plus, although I love dark muted colors a splash of yellow/mustard is a great way to go with my largely blue/black winter wardrobe. Also another box to tick on my wardrobe architect challenge.

About the pattern:
I like the pattern and bought it in the $1 ($3 for non-subscribers) sale last week. It seems to be a bit oversized and comfy and since I have enough close fitting cardis that’s a thing I’d like to try anyway. It might even be a nice thing to wear as outerwear over a long sleeved shirt as long as it is not yet super cold outside.

About the fabric:
I bought the nice dark-yellow-mustard(?) knit fabric at the fabric market at Maybachufer like all the other fabrics in this post with the exception of the navy coating fabric. That’s from stoffe.de. All of them were pretty cheap so for once sewing comes quite a bit cheaper then buying RTW. Some of the venders at the market sadly don’t know the fiber contents of their fabrics. The woman selling me the yellow knit told me it was wool and that is certainly not the case. It didn’t feel like wool at all and I suspect a significant percentage of acrylic or something like that. But it was pretty, felt good enough to the touch and was a bargain so I went for it anyways.

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

I’m very much a jersey top person. I own a few tunics and such but not one single dressy blouse. That’s not because I don’t like blouses but because my arms are so damn long that as an adult I’ve never been able to find a nice looking blouse that fit me well in the sleeves. I’m very much looking forward to change that.

About the pattern:
I’m I wrong or did the Granville pattern get much more love than the Oakridge? I looked for sewn up examples before but only managed to find very few. I might give the Granville a go in the future but I’m much more in love with the Oakridge. I love the bow and general style of the neckline. I think pussy-bow blouses can look costumy and old-fashioned and I like Sewaholics more modern and relaxed take on that.

About the fabric: 2€/m nice and drapey viscose fabric that needs very little ironing. Awesome!

La Maison Victor Cheri Coat

About the pattern:
This pattern is from the latest La Maison Victor magazine. In the magazine it is made up in a light blue Jersey and looks horrible on the model. I hope I can do better witch the wool coating. I really need a coat for the colder but not yet freezing days and I really want a loose style that can be worn with or without a belt so I’ll give this a try. I’ve newer sewn a LMV pattern before so let’s see how good of an experience it will be.

About the fabric:
The fabric is good quality wool coating from stoffe.de with an 80% wool content for as little as 8€/m if I remember correctly. I love the dark blue and it’s also woven in diagonals although that is not visible on the picture I’m afraid. Lovely stuff.

Sewaholic Oakridge Dress

I really like flannel shirts and I like shirt dresses … you see where this is going, right? After printing, assembling and cuttingand then flat-measuring the Oakridge I’m pretty sure it’ll fit me pretty well straight out of the envelope (minor changes, like lengthening sleeves and bodice is a thing I’ll always have to do). So once I tried and adjusted the fit on the blouse I’ll just have to lengthen the pieces and voila a dress. I really like the kind of shirt dresses that have a higher curve on the side seams and go lower in the back and front seam  (not sure how that’s called). So altering this pattern seems like a good way to go.

About the fabric:
Flannel. Nice flannel. Most certainly 100% cotton flannel. When I first touched it at the marked I knew that I had to get it instantly. You just want to pet it. It is the softest. For some stupid reason flannel is usually super expensive in Germany and so for the price of 4€/m I couldn’t say no. I bought way more than needed for this project but I’m thinking pajama pants… possibly more than one pair.

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Ottobre 5/2015 – 9
I need pants. I don’t only want to wear skirts in winter. But pants fitting is hard. This is a problem that has led to many failed attempts (muslins) in the past. We shall see if I can conquer this in the near future. Maybe this pattern will work well for me? Fingers crossed.

For the fabric I’m thinking some cheap wool suiting for a muslin and then possibly wool crepe for the final garment? Stay tuned for future pants-sucesses/disasters.
Oh, also this issue of Ottobre is a very strong one in my opinion, get it if you can.

Ottobre 5/2015 – 5

I have quite a few Jersey dresses but they are also the garment I wear most often. Some of my RTW jersey dresses are quite old and start to fall apart so now might be a good time to start replacing them.
About the pattern: This seems to be a fairly simple pattern with very few pieces and a simple a-line shape. If I can get a good fit I suspect I would wear a dress like that quite a lot in the winter. I like the neckline on me and as long as it’ll fit well through the hips this could be a great staple.

About the fabric: This is a thick and stable Interlock jersey, a cotton/poly blend I suspect. (Again, no knowledge about that from the seller). It feels nice to the touch but I’m not super convinced the small scale flowers will look great on me. We’ll see.

Butterick B6090

About the pattern/fabric:
I love the style of this pattern. I like shirt dresses. I’m not super convinced about the full skirt on me yet but I really want to try it. I have this nice lightweight chambray fabric and I’m thinking red buttonholes. The fabric might be to thin for winter but layering is always an option so I think I might do it anyway.

Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans

I want to make my own jeans. Desperately. Jeans usually fit me kind of well through the bum and thigh areas but are always way to short and tight at the calves. So I really want to give making my own ones a try. I hope this might be a bit easier to fit than a normal pant because of the skinny-ness/stretchiness. Plus I could compare it roughly to a RTW pair I own in an effort not to be totally off. Also, I now own a machine that is actually able to handle thick fabrics. I will give this a try sometime this winter but it might take me some months to actually attempt this.

It is quite possible that I’ll change my mind about some of those makes and add multiple others to the list. But for now I feel happy with the projects thus far and I’m sure I won’t be bored on those cold and dark winter evenings.
What are your sewing plans for the cold months?

xxx Sarah


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ALL the panties

Over the past few months I got really into sewing panties. And I can highly recommend it!
Sure, quite possibly only you and very few other people will ever see you in your beautiful handmade undergarments but for me the feeling of wearing something you know is beautiful and fits you well is far more important than other people seeing the thing you made.
The right underwear can make me feel strong and beautiful or even daring. Great underwear is just great fun!

One could buy well produced, well fitting, good quality underwear of course. But I don’t have the bankroll for that. If you want nice lace, pretty prints or god forbid something like silk you would quite possibly have to pay a lot of money. So I took it upon myself to find out if I can do it myself and it turns out that I can. I find that sewing panties is way faster, easier and cheaper than I ever imagined.
For the black pair of panties I used the most awesome lace imaginable – yes it’s pretty but more importantly it’s so soft it feels like not wearing anything at all. And although the lace was about 17€/m, it was very much worth it since I only needed a piece of roughly 20cm x 50cm for the pair you see below.

panties1Making this pair took me an estimated time of 3 to 5 hours and with less flimsy fabric I can make a pair in one and a half to two hours max and I’m no pro by any means. With the added benefit of it needing only very little fabric this is just the kind of project I love doing while catching up on the last two episodes „The Great British Bake Off“ or „Mr Robot“.

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As for the patterns I used: I made the 40s-style flutter panties using this pattern from Ohhh Lulu and the floral panties are made using the Grace pattern. If you don’t already know the beautiful undergarments made and sold by Sarah Elaine you should definitely check out her blog and or etsy shops (one for the finished garments, one for the patterns).
For the black panties I partly drafted my own pattern using the lining and crotch area from the Grace pattern and partly using an old pair of high waisted panties of my own as a guide. I love the high waisted vintage style and already made two more pairs for myself, slightly modifying the pattern in places.
The floral Grace panties are also slightly modified. I made them for a friend and she prefers slightly less coverage in the back for a more brazilian-style fit.
(Oh man, this post is mostly me trying to avoid certain key phrases to not attract the wrong kind of attention from search engines).
Both patterns are well designed and easy to understand as they come with a photo-guide and everything but I have to say that from my experience the Grace pattern runs a bit on the small side. From the pattern envelope my friend should have been fine in a XS but after measuring the finished product I went with a size S and that turned out to be the right decision. I additionally used jersey instead of bias cut woven fabric for the front and back panels in both versions. Had I not done that, the fit would have been even more off.

So if you want to make that pattern I’d suggest doing a muslin first or even going up a size if you are in between sizes. It’s very much worth it though as the pattern is verrrry pretty. And a lot depends on the amount of stretch of your chosen fabric. I think Sarah recommends doing a muslin anyway and although I’m a lazy-ish sewer I would agree, especially if I’m about to cut into expensive lace.

As you probably guessed from my rambleings by now, I LOVE making my own panties and I think I will keep on doing that so that over time I can switch out all my old RTW kind-of-fitting-pairs for shiny new, fun and well fitting handmade goodies.

xxx Sarah