Things made by me. Paintings, clothes and everything in between.

5 Kommentare

I made a coat!

I made a coat!
It’s been a few weeks since I finished this coat and I have been wearing it exclusively. All my other jackets and coats look at it with envy and disbelief, I must imagine.

I needed a coat for autumn and early winter and I knew I wanted something slouchy and oversized that I could just throw on, regardless on what I was wearing that day. The coat had to tick the following boxes: big enough to be worn with multiple layers underneath, neutral color for max combination possibilities, formal enough to be worn everywhere. In addition to that I wanted to learn some new techniques but it was also supposed to be a quick make, I didn’t want to bother witch tailoring techniques.

So along came La Maison Victor 9-10 2015 and the Cheri Coat and I was sold. I must admit, the made up coat you see in the picture didn’t really look great to me. I might be wrong but neither the fit on the model nor the chosen fabric and execution look quite right to me. But I quite liked the line drawing so I decided to give it a try anyway.
The pattern isn’t complicated to trace or assemble and the instructions in the magazine are pretty easy to understand. They even have additional diagrams for people how need visual aid rather than text. (This is true for every one of the 15 patterns and a great thing compared to the crappy instructions Burda provides).

I can’t quite remember how I chose my size but I think I made a slight error. Either that or the pattern runs big. Looking at the line drawing, the shoulder seams are meant to be dropped, so that part I’m fine with. The fit through out the bodice is also fine – oversized is oversized and I don’t feel like I have too much unnecessary fabric there. But the upper sleeves are a bit to big. I might be nitpicking here but I would have loved for them to be smaller, just an inch or so.

I lengthened the sleeves by about 3 inches which might have been a tad too much. I wanted full wrist coverage for those cold and drafty days we get here in Berlin. And I’ve certainly achieved that. But I found that – with wearing the coat on a daily basis – the sleeves tend to get in the way from time to time. If it’s not too cold I cuff them up a bit for practicability – added bonus being the possibility to show off the gorgeous lining.

The pattern doesn’t include a lining so I drafted one. I have a bit of experience in that regard as I did it only last winter for my old RTW coat (see here). I just used the main pieces and subtracted the facings whilst also adding a seam allowance. For a more structured garment this process would need to be more complicated but for this pattern it worked like a treat. I also decided not to fully bag the coat but instead slip-stitch the hem to the lining after sewing all of the other seams first.
Ah yes, that pretty, pretty lining. The wool I bought quite cheaply online and it is quite nice quality (see details here). But the lining is just a dream. I bought it here and I gladly paid 12,90€/m for it. It’s heavy and soft and super drapey and has a brushed back. Also it looks like liquid gold *swoon*. (I don’t know why it seems to be so hard to buy lining fabric with a good drape in Germany. I looked around for ages before I found this one – it’s a mystery to me.)

The first thing I wanted to do with the coat was attempting a bound buttonhole. The pattern dosen’t include a fastening but I knew I wouldn’t always want to wear the belt. I liked the design of the coat and didn’t want to change it by adding a full row of buttons down the front so I decided to put one on the top right instead. This way I could wear the coat with the belt and have the „collar“ show or button up the collar pieces and wear it loosely.

I had previously imagined the process of making bound button holes to be scary and super complicated. You can imagine my puzzlement when I found that I not only enjoyed the process but also managed to make a fully functional and – if I may say so myself – not too shabby looking first bound buttonhole. I looked up a bunch of diagrams and pictures which really helped demystifying the process.
I also love that wooden button. It’s smooth surface contrasts nicely with the loose diagonal weave of the wool.
Everything else was quite straight forward. The wool stretched out a bit at the neckline – despite all attempts at stay stitching – but thankfully I managed to fix it.

All in all this is a fine pattern. But if you want to make it I would advise to check the slightly weird sizing in advance.

I’m very proud of this coat. Not everything worked out perfectly but I am still incredibly happy about the end product. I feel great when wearing it, it’s just so warm and comfy. Most days I wear it loosely with knee length skirts and dresses and when I swirl it swooshes around me. What more could you ever want from a coat?

xxx Sarah


4 Kommentare

My first Oakridge blouse

Hello lovelies,

I have been quite busy recently – all non-sewing related, sadly. But some of the garments I was planning for in my autumn post have indeed been made. Today, I present you the Oakridge blouse!
I love blouses but I have not been buying or wearing them for years. Mostly because ready to wear blouses just don’t fit me right. They are always way to short in the torso and especially in the sleeves. So, in the past, if I wanted to wear a blouse I would always cuff the sleeves up to my elbow in an effort not to show their awkward length. So you might imagine that I was *really* exited for my first me-made blouse. And let me tell you, making this was a blast from start to finish!
I decided that I wanted to use the Sewaholic Oakridge pattern as I fall within their size range and I was in love with that cute bow. Before actually making it up I did some research on the internet as to the fit and possible issues other people had with it. I found that there aren’t that many Oakridge blouses out there – at least not if you compare it to the amount of Granville’s – it’s sister-pattern.  Some of the fit issues people were talking about were particularly long sleeves and fabric pooling in the back. The back of the Oakridge is cut on fold and has no dart shaping so pooling fabric can easily be an issue.

The first thing I did was flat measuring the pattern. I found that the sleeves were not too long on me and I didn’t even need to lengthen them. Amazing. The overall fit was great but I needed some length in the waist and while I was adding the length I decided to also alter the shape a bit and curve out the side seams below the waist a bit more for a more relaxed shape through out the hips.

The making of the pattern was quite uneventful and pretty easy. The instructions are easy to understand and the only issue I had was the attaching of the bow to the neckline. I’m not sure I did it correctly and (as a result?) my neckline won’t lie completely flat. I’m not super worried about the whole ordeal as the blouse was meant as a wearable muslin anyway (2€ fabric FTW) but I will have to look into that before attempting a second Oakridge.

Gladly, I can report a total lack of excess fabric in the back. Most likely that has something to do with me having bigger hips but a smaller bum. So the Oakridge might indeed be the perfect pattern to accommodate that.
A quick word about the fabric. This was a super cheap mystery fabric I bought on our local fabric market. It’s most likely some kind of viscose or viscose blend. It presses and sews nicely and I ended up liking it more than expected. But it is black with creme spots on it – it did not photograph well. Scrolling through my pictures I realized that non of them really showed the black bow on the black bodice. So in an effort to show this detail to you I took a close-up of the bow and brightened up the picture so you can see more details. Please bear that in mind when looking at the pictures below. Only the first picture shows the actual color of the blouse.
I really enjoy wearing my Oakridge. It makes me feel all chic and grown up (proper length sleeves and all) and I can’t wait stumbling upon some nice, drapey fabric that just screams pussy-bow blouse.
I would absolutely *love* to see more Oakridge’s. So if you made one up yourself recently please feel free to link me to it I do need some inspiration for my next one.

Hope you’re having a nice autumn and a (mildly) scary Halloween,
xxx Sarah