threadpaperpaint

Things made by me. Paintings, clothes and everything in between.


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I accidentally made a bra

At the beginning of the month I was contemplating making a jacket for spring as it was getting warmer or finally tackling those jeans I’ve been meaning to make for ages. But then it got cold again and I got a cold and just wasn’t feeling like tackling a big project.

A few months back I needed a couple of new bras because the old ones were worn out. I went to my local bra-dealer just to find out that the bras I used to buy had been discontinued. I tried on several different bras and settled on two pairs that fit well enough in the shop. I have since discovered that both of them do not fit me right and hurt and suck and over all just make me angry.

Cut to me lying in bed with a bad cough, a severe headache and the sniffles, dreading to put on an ill fitting bra to leave the house. See me shuddering by the thought of crouching on the floor cutting out huge pattern pieces for either a coat or some jeans. And finally picture me looking through my Bloglovin feed seeing posts on lingerie all over the place this month.

I arrogantly thought to myself – that doesn’t seem too hard, I can probably make a bra. Turns out I was right. But I do blame my confidence on my slightly delirious state. I am usually a very careful planner and think and plan for months in my head before making a difficult garment, especially if I haven’t made it up before. The thought of having small pattern pieces that I would be able to cut at my desk and the idea of pretty fabrics and laces was just too appealing. So I made a bra. Tadaaa:

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I can not advise you to do what I did. This is my *first* bra. I did not do a mock up, I did not do a proper fitting, I just went with my measurements and a pattern that is completely new to the market. I used nice lace and notions and a relatively complicated pattern with an all lace frame and cups …and against all odds it worked out fine!

I suspect the reason it worked out as well as it did is that my measurements are pretty standard. I need a longer band than readily available in most RTW bras but my cup size is a B and the underwires for my size fit my bust shape very well. I did expect a good fit from the start but I was surprised how superior the fit was to any RTW bra I own.

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(please excuse the stray lint and pieces of thread. I was so excited about finishing the bra that I took the pictures without cleaning the bra properly first.)

Let me talk about the pattern I used. It is the Bella pattern by Sewy. It seems to be a new pattern and it is only available in german but if you made bras before it should be pretty self explanatory.

I would say it is beginner friendly (as in bra making beginner – not sewing beginner of course) although if you’re not quite as crazy as me you might not want to start with a full lace frame and cups. I really liked that you can go to the pattern page on their website and see a very detailed description of the needed materials without buying the pattern first. It is also very size inclusive – the band sizes go from 65cm to 125cm and the cup sizes from A to H (although not all combinations of cup and band are available). The pattern is sold in 4 size groups. You have to add the seam allowance to the pieces yourself. That’s not a super nice task as you have to be quite precise but I don’t mind it too much because with bra alterations you have to cut away seam allowances all the time so it almost doesn’t matter either way.
The pattern includes instructions for cut-and-sew foam cup. This was the deciding factor for me to buy this pattern. I wanted to use foam for the nice shaping it provides but was slightly scared of having to make to many changes to a pattern with it being my first bra. I read multiple tutorials on cut-and-sew foam and working with lace and those helped me tremendously with the construction. I highly recommend the bra making sew-along by Cloth Habit as a great starting point for all bra making adventures.

I was quite scared of cutting my lace as I knew I had to mirror not only the upper cup pieces but also the bridge pieces perfectly as for the bra not to look odd. Meaning the right and left half of the bra should be exact mirror opposites in their lace edging. Turns out it’s not that hard. I cut out the pattern pieces once, turned them over and moved them on the opposite edge of the lace until I could find the exact mirroring piece. I did this with all the pieces that have the lace edge as their finished edge – namely upper cup and bridge pieces and even had enough lace left over to cut the under cup pieces from lace as well.

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I was so happy about how well the bridge pieces lined up, I just had to snap a quick photo.

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And that’s how it looks like on the finished bra.

I had some hiccups during the construction process. I started with the foam cups and the pieces just didn’t want to fit together perfectly and so I redid them several times over. The lace for the cups went together much better although I went into crisis mode when I discovered that I had assembled one cup inside out – after topstitching it of course. Using a seam ripper on dainty tulle lace is nothing you ever want to do. I highly recommend carefully labeling all your pattern pieces. I also pinned tiny scraps of fabric to the right side of the lace pieces and thus saved myself major headache.

I was planning to cut the back band out of microfiber stretch meant for bra making (as well as the under cups) but found that the color of the fabric I had didn’t match the lace as well as I had thought so I made full lace cups and used a double layer of navy power net for the back band. This worked out great. I like that the double layered power net is still slightly see through but super strong at the same time. It holds everything in place firmly whilst keeping the stretch.

It took me about 8 hours to make this bra – including the seam ripping and all. Not bad at all for a first time I think. I am quite happy with the fit over all and the shape the bra gives to my bust. The only place that could use a tiny bit of alteration is the inner upper cup region. I have a bit of excess space there, but only about half a cm or so. With my next bra I can hopefully change that – I think I should be able to get rid of the excess fabric/foam by altering the seam line of the lower cup pieces to be be more shallow. But I’ll have to some more research on that.

I hope you enjoyed my lengthy rumblings on bra making. Please let me know if you have bra making experience or are planning on making your first bra soon, I’m eager to see what other people have made or want to make and exchange war stories.

xxx Sarah


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My Strokkur!

Hello lovelies,

I have not been blogging a lot recently. Mostly because I have not been sewing a lot. I’m in the planning phase of several projects so you might get to some planning posts and even some finished things soonish.

But there are one or two things I’ve made and not shown you yet. Number one being this Strokkur sweater I have been knitting from last November to mid January.

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I was contemplating not blogging about it at all because it could be considered a failure in many ways. It is about a size too big, I went way overboard with the sleeve lengthening – by a whooping 3 inches or so and after a couple of months I have yet to block it.

So, yeah. But…I knit my first sweater ever, nay my first garment ever! I just had to show it off.

I love the colors, I love the pattern and instructions – totally beginner friendly – and I’ve been putting it on in the evenings nonstop since I’m done. In fact I am wearing this sweater as I’m typing. That’s also the only reason for me not blocking it yet – I don’t want to not be able to wear it for half a week.

I don’t have a lot of clever things to say about the knitting process – base line: the knitting went fine and took ages – I kept thinking that I could have sewn about 65 sweaters in the same time. Seems like I’m not a proper knitter in my head yet. But hey, I have got more wear out of it since making it than any other garment I have ever made before.

I used Drops ‚Nepal‘ wool for everything and it is lovely to the touch and very reasonably priced. For the whole sweater I only payed about 45€. Sadly there is a lot of pilling going on. I have no clue if the blocking helps with that but I suspect not.

I espacially enjoyed knitting the fair isle part but I have to get sone training in because I can’t yet do the dominant color thing properly. (That’s basically choosing one of the two colors you knit at the same time and always holding it in a certain way to make it stand out more against the other color)

I see more knitted sweaters in my future, possibly even more Strokkurs. I love the fair isle yoke although it makes the sweater less versatile. Well, I guess I have 4 to 3234 blacks cardigans for versatile. 😉

xxx
Sarah


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Merry Christmas and happy holidays!

Although this blog is called threadpaperpaint. There has not been a lot of painting up to this point. I’ve shown my sewing and some crafts but none of the painting-related stuff I do from time to time. Mostly because I have only done small pictures and greeting cards for the past couple of years.

So, here we go: This year I did a watercolor painting – collage as a christmas gift for my parents. It is verrrrrry christmassy.
Opposed to sewing related things I really don’t have loads more to say. I cant’t give you a how to or specific tips at all. I’ve been painting since I was little and I’ve just painted things until I got better at it and then tried new things – and kept doing that for 20 plus years.

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(Sadly, this photo isn’t the best and taken in a slightly weird angle, more high quality pictures will return with the next post.)

Please let me know if you’re at all interested in stuff like that and/or what kind of information you would want from me on the topic.
But now I will have some lovely family dinner and enjoy the rest of my christmas holiday.
Loads of christmas joy to you and your family,

xxx Sarah


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A blue velvet dress for the holidays and a book review

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*Firstly, let me say that I did not get this book for free, I wasn’t asked to review this and I am not using affiliated links. I stumbled upon this book in a local bookshop, took a peak inside and bought it on a whim.*

This blog post comes in two parts. Part one will feature a book review of „Sew many dresses, sew little time“ by Tanya Whelan and in part two I will tell you about the dress I made from said book.

About the book
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When Victory Patterns announced their Boundless Style book I was quite taken with the idea to have a whole book of different bodice, skirt and sleeve variations to mix and match into my dream dress. But – and this is a big buuuut for me – Boundless Style is not at all size inclusive. (size range 2 to 16)

„Sew many dresses, sew little time“ on the other hand goes up to a size 24. This makes it a way better fit for me (pun intended) as I’m well within their size range.

What I really like about SMDSLT ist that it doesn’t give fancy design options. It gives you basic pattern pieces and enough instruction (at least for me) to design all the fancy bits and pieces yourself for a more personalized dress.

You can choose between a simple bodice with darts, a bodice with princess seams, a halter neck option, a wrap bodice and a cowl neck and more (7 total). From there it gives you instructions to pretty much make any variation you could ever want (collars, off-the-shoulder straps and anything you could ever do by moving darts). It comes with basic sleeve and skirt options – the most complex being a multi-panelled, flared skirt. The book also includes a short but well compiled chapter on fit-alterations and features design-based alteration instructions throughout.

Basically it gives you the option to fit a basic pattern to your body (somewhat similar to a sloper, but with SA and ease) and then make hundreds of different dresses from that. At least that is my intented use of the book.

I think „Sew many dresses, sew little time“ is a good fit for anyone who wants to either make basic dresses in different variations without having to go through the fitting stage every single time or wants to do the same for more complicated dresses with design features and doesn’t mind putting in the design-effort themselves. If you fall in category one – simple but effective – I would go so far as to recommend this book to an advanced beginner. I’m only putting in the advanced for one reason – you have to draft your own facings and linings. The book gives you comprehensible instructions on the how-to but this might seem daunting to an absolute beginner.
If you are, like me, a more advanced sewer who likes to look at any dress and go – I could make that! and you don’t mind a little pattern drafting to make your dream dress happen, then this book could be right up your alley.

Now to the good, the bad and the mixed.
I really liked the basic bodice with darts I worked with for my dress. I love that the back bodice comes with shoulder darts. This makes all the difference with my slightly forwards falling shoulders. The instructions on how to alter or implement design features are easy to understand and well written. I loved that I could solely rely on the instructions in the book and didn’t have to look up anything additional online during my drafting process.
The only thing that I find to be problematic in this book is the fact that the lines in the nested patterns are very close in color and easily confused.

I will add that all the patterns are drafted for a B-Cup. That is amazing for me, as B is my cup size but many people might need to do a FBA (or SBA). Although, since all alterations should translate easily throughout the book, this might be less big of a deal.

That’s all I can think of for now but feel free to ask away if you have additional questions. By the way, for anyone who’s interested – there is a german edition called „Kleider nähen“ (they didn’t even try to be creative, let alone come up with a pun).

About the dress

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It was my dads birthday recently and I decided that I needed a new dress for that occasion. Need might have been a strong word, but I wanted one … also christmas is coming up, y’know? 4 weeks are surely not enough time to make an additional dress … *cough*.

So I was set on something festive. And what screams holiday-season like dark blue velvet? Well, red or green velvet, but I’m distinctly not an elf.
But I also knew that I wanted this dress to be reasonably comfortable, so I went for a velvet knit. At 4€/m it was quite inexpensive. Despite buying over 3 meters of the extra wide velvet I ended up having too little fabric for the full circle skirt I wanted, but it was just about enough for a 3/4 circle.

For the bodice I wanted to try a variation with yoke-gathers. The book had good instructions on what I wanted to to. I basically just cut off a yoke-piece at the top of the basic bodice and then moved all the darts to the center top to form a big piece that I then gathered and reattached to the yoke piece after adding seam allowances on both pieces. I then changed the the front and the back bodice to a boat neckline.

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I then drafted a simple 3/4 circle skirt and copied the pattern for long sleeves from the book. I had to add about 2 inches to the sleeves as per usual. For future reference – they just about fit, adding an additional inch or so couldn’t hurt.

All in all the dress was a remarkably easy sew. I had never worked with velvet before and added extra pins to prevent any „walking fabric“ but I had zero problems. Not a single pucker was detected and even the sleeves went in perfectly fine. Glorious.

Due to it being a circle skirt and therefore parts of the skirt being cut on the bias I let the dress hang for a few days before I hemmed it. The fabric moved a lot during cutting an hemming and I am not one hundred percent sure that the hem is even, it might be ever so slightly shorter in the front. But I suspect no one will ever notice that besides me anyway. The dress fits me pretty well but I don’t want to make any final statements about the general fit of the patterns until I’ve made at least one different view in a woven fabric.

I am very happy with the final dress and have been wearing it a lot over that past few weeks. Do you have any holiday-dress plans?

I really want to make a wrap-dress or a faux-wrap and the book has examples on both. I might give that one a try next. But I also need some pants for work. I’m still working up the courage to start with my first pair of gingers, so tempting but so daunting.

Hope you are doing well,

xxx Sarah


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The yellow Oslo Cardigan

I hope you’re doing well and are enjoying the beginning of autumn so far. It’s getting colder in my part of the world so I thought it would be fitting to open my autumn sewing season with the Oslo cardigan.

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Like I said in my planning post, I wanted a cardigan that would be warm, cozy and non-black. I’m glad to say that all these things have been achieved. Still, I’m not one hundred percent happy with the project. (By the way, it only looks like the sides aren’t level and I didn’t iron the hell out of that thing. They are and I did – I fully blame it on my poor fabric choice.)

For this Cardigan I used the Oslo pattern by Seamwork, Colettes‘ monthly magazine. The pattern was simple to assemble cut and sew but I have one major complaint that keeps bugging me. The pattern has you attach the collar piece to the already hemmed shell of the cardigan by just stitching the doubled collar down at the cardigan-front and neckline right sides together. I get it – this is a super fast way of doing things and Seamwork promises patterns that can be executed in 3 hours or less. But it just leaves a very untidy open edge at the hemline. I probably should have taken the time to only attach the front edge of the collar and then slipstitch the backside of the collar to the shell by hand. And I will probably do so in possible future makes.
I also didn’t really care for the optional button closure because I can’t think of a way that would make this button band not look vaguely grandpa-style (on me). So I decided to not add a closure and it has been fine so far. It might look fine with a single row button band but I wasn’t totally sold on that idea so I left it as is.

Over all I do like the pattern. It is long enough for my long torso and even the sleeves only needed a little bit of lengthening. I have seen a few people kind of drown in their makes of the Oslo cardigan so being between sizes I decided to go down a size (L). This was definitely the right decision. The shoulders are still a bit wide but nothing to dramatic. I really enjoy the scarf-like feel of the collar piece and the overall relaxed fit of the cardigan. So much so that I might make another version – with better fabric.
Sadly fabric I choose was a bit of a disappointment. It just clings to everything. you can see every damn seam line of the garment below and thats really not what you want in a cardigan. I still enjoy the color very much but I think I’ll have to wear it over long sleeved tops and dresses. Not much of a problem in winter but still – I’ll be on the lookout for fabric that is better suited and make up a second version. Let’s call this one a wearable muslin for now.

How has you autumn sewing been going? Do you have any tips for the collar issue? I’m unsure about slipstitching knits, maybe topstitching is the way to go?

xxx Sarah


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Autumn/winter sewing plans

As the first leaves start to turn yellow and the days get shorter I find myself thinking about longer sleeves and comfy woolen things to wear for autumn. So I’ve collected my autumn/winter sewing plans and made some little line drawings for your and my improved visualization and enjoyment.
As you can see, I’ve bought fabrics already for most of my planned projects and some of them are even in various stages of completion. Yeah for an early start to autumn sewing!
Let’s go through them one by one, shall we?

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The Seamwork Oslo Cardigan

I’m in desperate need of a non-black cardigan. I kid you not when I tell you that I have zero cardigans that aren’t black. And some of the ones I own I’ll have to toss out anyway because they are falling apart at the seams. Plus, although I love dark muted colors a splash of yellow/mustard is a great way to go with my largely blue/black winter wardrobe. Also another box to tick on my wardrobe architect challenge.

About the pattern:
I like the pattern and bought it in the $1 ($3 for non-subscribers) sale last week. It seems to be a bit oversized and comfy and since I have enough close fitting cardis that’s a thing I’d like to try anyway. It might even be a nice thing to wear as outerwear over a long sleeved shirt as long as it is not yet super cold outside.

About the fabric:
I bought the nice dark-yellow-mustard(?) knit fabric at the fabric market at Maybachufer like all the other fabrics in this post with the exception of the navy coating fabric. That’s from stoffe.de. All of them were pretty cheap so for once sewing comes quite a bit cheaper then buying RTW. Some of the venders at the market sadly don’t know the fiber contents of their fabrics. The woman selling me the yellow knit told me it was wool and that is certainly not the case. It didn’t feel like wool at all and I suspect a significant percentage of acrylic or something like that. But it was pretty, felt good enough to the touch and was a bargain so I went for it anyways.

Sewaholic Oakridge Blouse

I’m very much a jersey top person. I own a few tunics and such but not one single dressy blouse. That’s not because I don’t like blouses but because my arms are so damn long that as an adult I’ve never been able to find a nice looking blouse that fit me well in the sleeves. I’m very much looking forward to change that.

About the pattern:
I’m I wrong or did the Granville pattern get much more love than the Oakridge? I looked for sewn up examples before but only managed to find very few. I might give the Granville a go in the future but I’m much more in love with the Oakridge. I love the bow and general style of the neckline. I think pussy-bow blouses can look costumy and old-fashioned and I like Sewaholics more modern and relaxed take on that.

About the fabric: 2€/m nice and drapey viscose fabric that needs very little ironing. Awesome!

La Maison Victor Cheri Coat

About the pattern:
This pattern is from the latest La Maison Victor magazine. In the magazine it is made up in a light blue Jersey and looks horrible on the model. I hope I can do better witch the wool coating. I really need a coat for the colder but not yet freezing days and I really want a loose style that can be worn with or without a belt so I’ll give this a try. I’ve newer sewn a LMV pattern before so let’s see how good of an experience it will be.

About the fabric:
The fabric is good quality wool coating from stoffe.de with an 80% wool content for as little as 8€/m if I remember correctly. I love the dark blue and it’s also woven in diagonals although that is not visible on the picture I’m afraid. Lovely stuff.

Sewaholic Oakridge Dress

I really like flannel shirts and I like shirt dresses … you see where this is going, right? After printing, assembling and cuttingand then flat-measuring the Oakridge I’m pretty sure it’ll fit me pretty well straight out of the envelope (minor changes, like lengthening sleeves and bodice is a thing I’ll always have to do). So once I tried and adjusted the fit on the blouse I’ll just have to lengthen the pieces and voila a dress. I really like the kind of shirt dresses that have a higher curve on the side seams and go lower in the back and front seam  (not sure how that’s called). So altering this pattern seems like a good way to go.

About the fabric:
Flannel. Nice flannel. Most certainly 100% cotton flannel. When I first touched it at the marked I knew that I had to get it instantly. You just want to pet it. It is the softest. For some stupid reason flannel is usually super expensive in Germany and so for the price of 4€/m I couldn’t say no. I bought way more than needed for this project but I’m thinking pajama pants… possibly more than one pair.

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Ottobre 5/2015 – 9
I need pants. I don’t only want to wear skirts in winter. But pants fitting is hard. This is a problem that has led to many failed attempts (muslins) in the past. We shall see if I can conquer this in the near future. Maybe this pattern will work well for me? Fingers crossed.

For the fabric I’m thinking some cheap wool suiting for a muslin and then possibly wool crepe for the final garment? Stay tuned for future pants-sucesses/disasters.
Oh, also this issue of Ottobre is a very strong one in my opinion, get it if you can.

Ottobre 5/2015 – 5

I have quite a few Jersey dresses but they are also the garment I wear most often. Some of my RTW jersey dresses are quite old and start to fall apart so now might be a good time to start replacing them.
About the pattern: This seems to be a fairly simple pattern with very few pieces and a simple a-line shape. If I can get a good fit I suspect I would wear a dress like that quite a lot in the winter. I like the neckline on me and as long as it’ll fit well through the hips this could be a great staple.

About the fabric: This is a thick and stable Interlock jersey, a cotton/poly blend I suspect. (Again, no knowledge about that from the seller). It feels nice to the touch but I’m not super convinced the small scale flowers will look great on me. We’ll see.

Butterick B6090

About the pattern/fabric:
I love the style of this pattern. I like shirt dresses. I’m not super convinced about the full skirt on me yet but I really want to try it. I have this nice lightweight chambray fabric and I’m thinking red buttonholes. The fabric might be to thin for winter but layering is always an option so I think I might do it anyway.

Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans

I want to make my own jeans. Desperately. Jeans usually fit me kind of well through the bum and thigh areas but are always way to short and tight at the calves. So I really want to give making my own ones a try. I hope this might be a bit easier to fit than a normal pant because of the skinny-ness/stretchiness. Plus I could compare it roughly to a RTW pair I own in an effort not to be totally off. Also, I now own a machine that is actually able to handle thick fabrics. I will give this a try sometime this winter but it might take me some months to actually attempt this.

It is quite possible that I’ll change my mind about some of those makes and add multiple others to the list. But for now I feel happy with the projects thus far and I’m sure I won’t be bored on those cold and dark winter evenings.
What are your sewing plans for the cold months?

xxx Sarah


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My Southport dress

Hey! I’m back! I’ve been crazy busy since late May and thus neglected this poor blog. It saddens me that I didn’t have the time or energy to update it but I’ve been busy doing fun and interesting stuff, so yeah for that!

I was super exited when I first saw the Southport and wanted to make it right away. The pictures on True Bias‘ website are just geogeous. I especially fell in love with the maxi version. I was planning on doing the maxi version but the lovely fabric I got on sale only allowed for the knee lenghth option. Oh well, I might do a maxi version in the future.

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I have been wearing this dress quite a lot as it is super light and comfy, just the perfect summer dress. I’m contemplating making another version with added short sleeves, just because I really like that look. If I run across the perfect fabric, I just might.

The pattern itself was pretty easy to assemble and a straight forward sew. If I remember correctly I made it up in an afternoon without any hassle. I sewed the buttons on instead of making proper buttonholes to avoid gaping and because of general lazieness. I might do them properly in possible future versions, just because I imagine it would look pretty. And also because I have a new sewing machine that does a one-step buttonhole and now I want to sew ALL the buttonholes.

How have you been and what have you been making?

xxx Sarah